Freeze, rain, thunderstorms, hail? The time has come to complete this 2017 harvest, the result of a new year of work.Well ordered, this reduced harvest remains very promising.
“A complicated vintage but with many positive points”, sums up Laurent Panigaï, whose quality as an expert we know (he was for many years head of the viticulture department of the Champagne Committee). Today the new deputy director general of the Wine Center? champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, this technician provides an interesting analysis: “Harvesting is the culmination of a sequence that begins winter in pruning. For five months we had the essentials, with extremely positive criteria. Spring water stress without drought, good vegetative development and physiologically healthy vines, few diseases? »Laurent Panigaï obviously does not hide the vagaries of the climate and its accidents that are very restrictive for winegrowers, the spring frosts, hail, the rains of July-August … but he limits his impact on the complexity of the vintage, certainly more or less reduced depending on the sector but promising. ”These phenomena blur the legibility of the situation in the appellation where we mainly observe good ripening conditions. At Feuillatte, we note the high sugary ripeness of the Chardonnays, with high acidity. Interesting So, as for Pinots Noirs and Meuniers, the situations are more contrasted. We are very mobilized, we must not promise the worst and be aware that a very significant part will be interesting to vinify. “Selection recommendations were given to the vineyard”, recalls the deputy director, inviting a man of experience to combine prudence, modesty and hope. “If the perspective of the great vintage has been left behind, I do not exclude that some vintage may, especially in Chardonnay, with profiles that could resemble 2008 or 2004”.
All juices tested and analyzed
At the Wine Center? Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, the harvest lasts an average of three weeks. Montgueux on August 28 and the first sectors, in particular in the south of Sézannais, launched the 2017 credits before the entry of all the players from the weekend of September 2 and 3 and a strong mobilization the week of 4 to 8. The Wine Center brings together 4,500 member winegrowers. “All the juices are pressed and deposited in the vineyard”, remembers Laurent Panigaï, “when they arrive at the Chouilly site, each time a sample is taken and goes to the laboratory for analysis, which will allow us to refine the categorization of the juices, obviously very varied (different sectors, different grape varieties, beginning, middle or end of harvest, etc.). We group as in a plot of exploitation, with experience or empiricism. »The range of possibilities is wide and rigorous in line with the volume processed: 2,200 hectares, 259 of the 320 vintages of the appellation, 13 of the 17 grands crus, 33 of the 44 premier crus. tubs that present a doubt. We measure the richness in sugars and the acidity of course, but under the conditions of the year two criteria are also relevant, gluconic acid and glycerol. These two molecules are naturally present in wine and their levels can indicate a sensitivity that the grape berry has known to attack, generally botrytis. As long as we do not have the result of the analysis, we do not release the juices, that is, it does not have its destination. »After laboratory and sensory analysis, all samples are released and ventilated. The vinifications will continue (with or without bad). If stainless steel is king (400 vats), the vintages that will make up the 225 and 225 Rosé gastronomic cuvées will be aged in oak barrels.
35,000 hl for reserve wines
Through the storefronts of the splendid reception area, the new 35,000 hl stainless steel cellar, with its multiple modules dedicated to reserve wines, reminds us that the Wine Centre stores here the wines that will be preserved for several years, but also that invests in Increasing the use of this new tool will take a few years.”At Feuillatte, we believe that we are sustainable,” says Laurent Paniga, “among all our wines, we identify first and foremost those who are thought to have an interest in being put on reserve.It also helps us think about our directions.” 30-45% of reserve wines are now incorporated into some vintages, knowing that the aging time is at least 3 years for raw wines without a year.Www.facebook.com/Feuillatte.fr
“Great quality juice and few bumps with this Coquard,” says Nicolas Salomon.
Still not easy, this 2017 vintage in Vandières? Frost as in many areas of Champagne, but also rain, rain and more rain. With this sad day of August 16. “Did we take 35mm in 45 minutes?” »Remember Nicolas Salomon. A severe blow in particular for the very weakened millers, who before the official opening date increased rapidly in grade and who joined the domain on D-day, after essential selection (the beans affected by rot were beginning to dry out) . Before chardonnays, moreover, more conserved and in general with great potential. And before the Pinot Noirs plots in Boursault and Venteuil, more loaded with grapes because they are safer from the spring frosts. The good news now! Because he appreciates the quality of the juice and the small lees compared to a pneumatic press, Nicolas Salomon bought a traditional Coquard press, renovated in particular with plastic slats. Modern therefore, resistant, easier to clean, suitable for the essential hygiene required? “And above all, Nicolás specifies, efficient in terms of quality and clarity of the juice. And much quieter than a tire. »4000 kg ideal for working the plot in different sectors (3.6 ha in total). Obviously, we will have to face the lack of grapes (average of 8000 kg / ha in the millers) and the reserve will be welcome! At Nicolas Salomon, an independent winemaker, everything is pressed, vinified, aged to make the bottle. Outside the press, the juices join the belones that, once the harvest is complete, will be cleaned and straightened along the wall. Essential space saving! The juices flow by gravity to enamelled steel sedimentation tanks, placed in the cellar. For vinification and reserve wines, the new stainless steel vats replace the enameled steel ones. “I broke the bank in 2015 to buy 14 tubs of 21.80 hl in double compartments. This allows me to separate all my cuvées, work by plot and by variety of grape. I only have a large enameled steel tank for my assemblies. »Www.facebook.com/champagnedenissalomon
Large investments opened for this 2017 vintage for Champagne Briaux Lenique.
The harvest was also difficult at the Briaux Lenique de Mardeuil estate, which works 4 hectares, or 21 plots (50% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir). Did you have to juggle and stay calm because all the major works that started in November 2016 (new press, new warehouse, new reception area, warehouse layout to gain storage) were delayed? This did not suit the family organization, which had to regret calling a service provider for collection instead of the usual equipment. Fortunately, morale quickly recovered when the crates loaded with fine grapes (with top-notch Chardonnays) arrived. Nathalie and Stéphanie, who have taken over the reins of the family business (but Pol and Christiane, the parents, are never far away) also enjoyed the new, highly functional and qualitative acquisition. A 4000 kg Europress press from Scharfenberger, which replaces the old traditional vertical Coquard, and which employee Sébastien obviously had the pleasure of inaugurating. However, it is not about getting rid of the one that will have served the farm for a long time, the Coquard will delight visitors and will undoubtedly serve to make a new cuvée. Nothing has been decided yet but the idea is already trotting in the mind of Nathalie, who together with her sister develops the crops and their value. Press, settle, vinify, store? The juices from the fine grapes went to the new winery of the farm, 450 hl of stainless steel containers for the work of the plot (22 hl on average). All work will now be carried out in stainless steel tanks, which will therefore replace enameled steel. Now that the harvest is safe, the job can be completed. For a practical, modern and cozy end result. www.facebook.com/ChampagneBriauxLenique